Visiting Carcar

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="251" caption="View from the veranda of the museum"][/caption]

They call it south station, a place where you’ll find buses, mini and full size or jumbo jeeps all en route to the southern part of the province. I was headed to one of the most beautiful town in southern Cebu, Carcar. I was visiting the town for the first time, could be the only time, but I was certain that this would be a unique trip. Travel time is about two hours, or more, but on the road I seem to have lost track of time, thanks to the many sights of peculiarity (like a two wheeled motorcycle carrying four adults and a child!) and beauty of along the way.

Somewhere in Naga one could catch a view of the sea from the road; it was quite a sight, the strong sea breeze and that bizarre smell of the sea is so strange for a stranger Manileno. The major roads here are all built alongside the coastline, as you go farther south you see less of the metropolitan we are all use to seeing. I was starting to see the true rural Cebu (bahay kubo’s in the truest meaning of the name), towns squash in between the sea and the hills. One could not say that they have been in Cebu the provincia, if they’ve never visited this bucolic situates.

Carcar sits together with Taal and Vigan as the only NHI declared heritage towns in the country, they have maintained their town inside a time capsule but just imagine if most of the old towns in all of our islands were preserved, they all could be drawing tourist cash, livelihood in short for the towns people, lack of foresight by both leaders and people in most town has deprived them of such opportunities.

Like Binan for example, a rich Laguna town that has lost allits heritage structures – what was once a model of progress and fine living is no more, the Alberto house is now the only remnant of Binan’s celebrated past, but this residence is also imperil and would soon be gone – just like everything else in Binan.

The past decades has seen a rapid increase of old Hispanic houses being brought down, if not by men, by forces of nature due to years of neglect – San Nicolas in Manila is a fine example of this, I was surprised to know that Manila does not even have an incentive plan for those who would try to keep their old homes intact – no wonder owners would rather bring an old house down than preserve it due to expense, an old home would cost more, double to maintain than a new one – when sold it would always fetch a high price in the realty market, here in Carcar, the people need not look for the government to compensate them, there’s pride among these people, they’re enormously proud of their town and history, and most are willing to tour people around their town. There are many lessons we can learn from these Carcaranon’s, Manila can find answers here in heritage preservation thats if we can go past politics and incompetency.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="Fascade of the Sta. Catalina"][/caption]

It’s only fitting that Carcar has been recently declared a heritage town. Everywhere you go you’ll find traces of what life was like during the glory days of one of the richest, historically and culturally, town in Sugbuanon history. The houses were built using the finest materials– the elite was showing off here, they live life in grand style; little did they know that they were building more than splendid homes but monuments of beauty.

The original town was built on top of barrio Valladolid but was later relocated to its present location because of the brutal Moro raids; Valladolid was vulnerable because of its proximity to the sea. It is said that Carcar’s church has been rebuilt many times, the pueblo’s present house of prayer was established in 1860 by Fray Antonio Manglamo, supplementary works to improve what was started by Fray Manglamo was done by Fray Gonzalez and later by a certain Fray Rubio. These men of clothe would later develop roads that would connect the calles’ straight to the gates of the parish.

There are impressive descriptions of this church from more established writers, but one thing that everyone seems to reiterate is that the church appears to be deeply influenced by Moorish design; at first glance it appears to be somewhat of a small Middle Eastern mosque than a Catholic church. It has maintained its appearance for more than a century is a tribute to the Carcaranon appreciation of safeguarding these treasures. This generation could only hypothesize why it was designed that way, but there’s beauty in mystery.

But still, I could not understand how a town, who was frequently assaulted by the atrocious Moro raiders’, snatching town people making them slaves and stealing treasure could appreciate Islamic inspired architecture.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="The interior of San Catalina"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="381" caption="The choir loft inside the church"][/caption]

The twelve stone apostles’ in Sta. Catalina watches over its surrounding and just like in the scripture – Judas is isolated in an obscure spot while the rest stands proud around the church walls. Figures of Cherubim’s and statue of uniformed Angels are on every corner inside the church – they’re everywhere actually, and its more than an assurance that you are indeed in a divine place.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="Giant foundations found inside the church"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="380" caption="Nuestro Biloy! (Our Biloy!) Beautiful markers dedicated to active church members"][/caption]

Prominent lapidas’ exposing the prominent members of the town, men who donated to the construction of the church usually are honored by these death plaques, names’ that are recognizable because most belongs to the elite families of Carcars.

The town is memorable at least to revolution historians because it was here that the uprising was dealt a major blow in its southern theater, the death of Leon Kilat – not in the hands of the Espanoles but by fellow Filipino’s who were not in good terms with the Katipunan’s plans.

In the arts, Martino Abellena is the biggest name. Abellana, this province greatest painter has almost single handedly resurrected the art of painting in the province. Romulo Galicano studied under Abellana.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="The Puericulture during the American colonial now known as the Carcar Museum"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="The receiving platform of what was once the towns Puericulture"][/caption]

The puericulture which has been transformed into a museum is a beautiful monument of the American era, if there is one thing that we could really be grateful for with the Gringo’s is that they brought cure to the disease’s of 19^th century Philippines, the cholera for example was ended in Manila and in the countryside, there was these successful medical system – the Puericulture is a clinic for the women and child, and this one in Carcar is not just another standard clinic but the manner of its construction just only shows, again that Carcaranon’s built differently, when you get to see Carcar, you’ll understand what I mean. They still refer to their day care centres here as Puericulture.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="A colorful colonial house"][/caption]

In this town one could also find the original rail track built by the Spaniards, during its peak, it traveled south to north, transporting goods and people, too bad that it was not resurrected after it was abandoned, it yielded to neglect and lack of vision and is now just a relic of the bygone days. The Cebuano generation does not even know that such railroad system exist!

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="422" caption="Old home converted into pretty little shops"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="428" caption="A common "bahay na Bato" around Carcar"][/caption]

Heritage homes of the great families of Carcar are everywhere, ruins can also be found. What’s surprising is that even those homes in dire condition, are still somewhat intact. Calles are clean and everything seem to be in order here.

I can go on and on and talk about what this town can offer but this is one of those places that one must see to better appreciate, being around Carcar reminded meof how deeply rooted our culture is to our religion and Hispanic past.

Churches near Ciudad Cebu

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="378" caption="Fascinating old churches near Cebu City, I saw these magnificent structures on my way to Carcar. They line the road and are always worth the stopover for a closer look."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="379" caption="The first stop is San Tomas de Villanova -St. Tomas of Villanova- in Pardo. Built more like a fortress tower, its fascinating byzantine design is from this man, Domingo de Escondrillas, said to have been the lone architect during his days, he also designed the Carcel -their version of Bilibid Viejo of Manila – El Carcel is now the city’s Museum."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="379" caption="Next is Minglanilla, with its pretty spacious park, the gothic inspired peach colored church is a site to behold. On the side of the Iglesia is a prayer room -I’m not sure what was its original purpose, it seem to be the only remaining old structure in the compound, made with cut corals stones and tisa roof. Although the church has been restructured several times, it still reveals its splendor even with its modern rebuilding, the old design remains, it’s still a charming church."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="Then there is Naga, known as one of the older town in Cebu it is home to the unique church of San Francisco de Asis-St. Francis of Assisi, its style is exceptional, it has some Moorish quality to it, truly a outstanding religious art that Cebuano’s should conserve for the future generation Its foundations are exposed from the its side. Its construction was carried out by Fray Aguirre following Bishop Maranon’s blueprint, a known church builder who was also the hand behind the convent-school of Cebu Cathedral, Sibonga convent and Oslob church."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="The last stop was San Fernando’s San Isidro Parish and Pitalo church. San Isidro was closed when I stopover, it just celebrated its feast and there was an arch constructed using bamboo, there was what look like a post American colonial elementary school in front of it. The church is designed by Domingo de Escondrillas, the gothic inspired church was constructed in 1858 but was only finished in 1886, this only goes to show that funds were not really flowing like stream water during those days, these wonderful structure where built by people who endured hardships because they wanted to see their own parish rise."][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="Then there is Pitalo, San Fernando’s San Vicente Ferrer church. Built in 1925, it’s more like a chapel because of its size, its painted peach it closely resembles the façade of San Francisco de Asis in Naga."][/caption]

The Cross

inside this house of coral stones and tisa, the legendary cross of Magellan

The highlight of my journey here in Cebu is being here, where Magellan planted his cross, forever changing our island nations history. Although there has been some questions raised about the authenticity of the Cross, if it was the one Magellan planted, the site is without a doubt one of the most important site in Filipino history [it is the official city symbol of Ciudad de Cebu].

The place marks the establishment of Catholicism in the land, what started in Bohol was continued here – and decades later would prove to be a success, creating a state with Catholicism and Madre Espana as its early foundation.

Li-loan's San Fernando Rey

San Fernando Rey

San Fernando Rey in Liloan [li-loan] is a church shrouded with mysteries. Legend has it that the cave at the back of the altar is full of ancient treasures and that a sea creature protects it. This of course is a myth but stories like this add mystique to already a popular town, making the place more interesting.

The meter thick wall. I'm amazed at how this church has been preserved


The interior

I tried to look for someone in the parish to talk to; I was not in luck, there was no one. I want to see the cave for myself, in the early days it was said to have been made accessible to the public. I’m certain that the cave is man-made, but when it was dug out, nobody's sure. But whether it was hollowed out in the 1800’s or during the Japanese occupation, I suspect that the purpose would be to hide possessions, if not lives.

The Coral Stone church with a Parola replica

The Hispanic Cebu era had its share of pirates, Moro raiders sacking the rich southern towns of the province – and it makes sense that such an asylum exist inside the church, which during those years was where people would seek refuge from calamaties. During the brutal Japanese occupation this cave possibly served the same purpose.

I’ve heard that the cave is flooded with water, if this is the case, it could be similar in design with an ancient excavation made in Canada, where after the excavation, the hole was intentionally flooded to conceal the treasures forever.

I plan to go back in Lilo-an, hopefully, I could inspect this legendary cave and take pictures. I’m trying to contact people that could make this possible, a recent blogger, who writes about the town, was denied access by the current parish priest.

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The Friars that built it were men of great vision; they knew the parish would grow so they built a church that would have the capacity to accommodate parishioners for centuries. There has been no expansion ever since, which is truly remarkable!

What’s also interesting is that it was built facing west, when it was standard practice to erect churches facing the sea, which is on the East. Nobody is certain why it was designed this way, Cebuano historians believe that the builders wanted to steer clear from the heat of the sun [since mass were held regularly in the morning]. But I left the place still with question in my head, why when all the churches was established facing the sea, why was Li-loan’s San Fernando Rey erected facing west?

My opinion is that the mission that planned building the church sought to pay reverence to the monarch saint by building a church that faces his kingdom in the west.

I could be wrong though.

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Here I saw expert potters; they declare that theirs is the best lechon de leche, but every town here in Cebu claims superiority over the other towns, in the end, the proof is in the eating. Grill stands are also popular here, after tasting their grilled fish and sea weed salads; I could attest that life is good here. It must be. I was beginning to fall in love with the town that I’ve only known in books.

There is also a ruin of “Bantayan sa hari” in Barrio Celero, similar to Mandaue, these fortifications reach Daangbantayan, a sentry system as part of a defense plan laid out to protect the Christian population. The town is proudest of their Parola, built by Taft in the 1900’s. It’s a Beautiful monument of time, history and tradition of diligent Liloanons.

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Another Rizal monument

Another Rizal monument in Liloan's town hall which by the way is a fascinating structure built during the American colonial years. But I was surprised to see who donated the typical Rizal bronze statue – a young representative named Vicente Sotto, a Cebuano literary genius and a respected statesman.

Cebu Cathedral Museum

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="423" caption=" The old convent converted into a wonderful museum"][/caption]

Cebu Cathedral has unveiled their Museums finest collection, entitled “Cuna del Cristianismo: The Ecclesiastical Treasures of the Archdiocese of Cebu”, the displays would be permanent, and it features ancient pieces from pre Vatican II chasubles, life size paintings of Cebu’s bishops [including that of Dn. Pedro de Agusto, an Augustinian from Mexico, the islands first Bishop], rare photos [recuerdo de patay of past Bishops] and the amazing centuries old icons from the old parishes across the island.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="427" caption="The rear portion of the convento, at a distance the Cebu Cathedral"][/caption]

This is by far one of the most impressive museum I’ve ever visited here, the onetime convento that houses the exhibition is in itself a remarkable place, said to have been built by a visionary builder – Bishop Santos Gomez Maranon [builder of the churches in Oslob and Naga, under his administration, the impressive convent in Sibonga was also created], it is witness to the accomplishments of the pioneer missions. As missions succeeded in converting Sugbuanon natives, it gradually formed the shape of not only this wonderful island but the entire nation, as the Cebu missions would serve to be the model for future missionary expeditions.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="434" caption="The wooden engraving of Saints"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="438" caption="A beautiful altar with its sacristy, adored with gold and silver"][/caption]

There is a guided tour when I came in, but I decided not to join the group because I wanted to observe at my own [very] leisurely phase. In the first floor, a whole retablo complete with religious objects is put on show, the silver art is of the most excellent quality, a product of the galleon trades. Heavy wooden benches and engraving of the four gospel saints said to be more than two centuries old can also be found. What’s amazing is that the whole house is still partially supported by the original log foundations!  Some of these thick timber foundations are highlighted by lights for everyone to see.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="The floor, showing the first portion belonging to the prehispanic era, then the Hispanic and later the American colonial"][/caption]

A portion of the second floor is dedicated to Cardinal Vidal, a great man who has served his church admirably. The exhibits features some of his personal collections , it includes  letters and a private notes, photos and medals - his La Lealtad Acrisolada por Isabel La Catolica [presented by King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia in ‘76], another medal presented this time by El Generalissimo, Francisco Franco, the prestigious Gran Cruz de la Orden Isabel La Catolica.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="387" caption="- A Cebu Bishop’s photo, taken and printed in Binondo Manila"][/caption]



This project of the Archdiocese of Cebu is a very good example of what restoration should be, I’m so happy with what I’ve seen here. Although there were portions that were obviously reconstructed, needed to maintain the old convent structurally sound, the effort placed on preserving the old character of the historical house is commendable.

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Photo taking is prohibited on the relics exhibited on the second level, something that we all – being visitors should respect, I limited my shoots on the areas where it was allowed.

Carmelites of Cebu

The Gate with the Convento

The beauty of Cebu city is that it’s metropolitan, well developed, but hidden behind its progress are sacred grounds that continues to provide spiritual sanctuary for centuries to its inhabitants.

One of my adored places to visit is the Carmelite convent and chapel, founded in the mid 1900’s by the Carmelites here in Mabolo. It has a quiet small garden, where I would just take a seat and rest my mind, it has several rock benches, mature trees with broad leaves scattered around the convent grounds that supplies ideal shade.

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The Carmilite Chapel with the familiar Carmilite symbols

The place is perfect for finding serenity and God, even Arroyo, stressed out with numerous issues on her presidential campaign against Poe, who many still believes won, that she silently flew and sought asylum inside the Carmilite convent, startling even her closest cabinet members.

Inside the classical gothic chapel are candle stations, I often light candles after dropping coins in the donation boxes. Candles are mysterious things, they have the power to unwind your weary mind, and its light is like a mirror where you could see yourself and reflect on the troubles you face. I’m always looking to lit candles, even when I was a child, I did it for fun then but now that I’ve matured, it feels very different.

Inside the church is a relic, a small piece of rock from Mount Carmel, taken from where the Holy Virgin appeared and delivered her divine message. It’s sheltered inside a transparent container, just beneath a life-sized statue of the Nuestra Sra. Del Carmen.

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The Entrance of the Monastery, a Carmelite sister at the gate

I’m sure that we all wore Scapulars when we were kids, I use to wore them even when I’m playing basketball, I’ll never take them off until it gets worn out - then I’ll just buy another one. My mother told me that it has mystical powers and I believe that it has powers, that anyone who wears the Carmilte Scapular would be kept away from harm, something that I would discover to be the truth later in life.

I have a scapular, placed inside my car; I’ll momentarily stare at it and say my little prayer before heading out. In 2005, I suffered a terrible accident; I collided head on with a jeep somewhere in Tunasan, my car was badly wrecked, windows smashed into pieces. I momentarily lost consciousness upon impact but regained it just in time to drive my car to safety near the shelter of Pepsi Muntinlupa. It was a hit and run, when the police came they were told by the tambays to look for the jeep, they never caught that bastard who crossed his driving lane to overtake causing the collision.

I was rushed to the hospital; fortunately, it was Asian Hospital, one of the finest medical institution in southeast Asia. Aside from stitches and some hours of observation for possible head trauma, I was out of the hospital in less than 6 hours. I attribute this unbelievable survival to Our Lady of Perpetual Help and the scapular of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel.



Being here in the Carmilite Convent and Chapel is always a special occasion for me, I doubt it if I’ll be able to make a pilgrim to Mt. Carmel, I know seeing that little rock in the Carmelite chapel is the closest I could get to that miraculous mountain.