Li-loan's San Fernando Rey

San Fernando Rey

San Fernando Rey in Liloan [li-loan] is a church shrouded with mysteries. Legend has it that the cave at the back of the altar is full of ancient treasures and that a sea creature protects it. This of course is a myth but stories like this add mystique to already a popular town, making the place more interesting.

The meter thick wall. I'm amazed at how this church has been preserved


The interior

I tried to look for someone in the parish to talk to; I was not in luck, there was no one. I want to see the cave for myself, in the early days it was said to have been made accessible to the public. I’m certain that the cave is man-made, but when it was dug out, nobody's sure. But whether it was hollowed out in the 1800’s or during the Japanese occupation, I suspect that the purpose would be to hide possessions, if not lives.

The Coral Stone church with a Parola replica

The Hispanic Cebu era had its share of pirates, Moro raiders sacking the rich southern towns of the province – and it makes sense that such an asylum exist inside the church, which during those years was where people would seek refuge from calamaties. During the brutal Japanese occupation this cave possibly served the same purpose.

I’ve heard that the cave is flooded with water, if this is the case, it could be similar in design with an ancient excavation made in Canada, where after the excavation, the hole was intentionally flooded to conceal the treasures forever.

I plan to go back in Lilo-an, hopefully, I could inspect this legendary cave and take pictures. I’m trying to contact people that could make this possible, a recent blogger, who writes about the town, was denied access by the current parish priest.

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The Friars that built it were men of great vision; they knew the parish would grow so they built a church that would have the capacity to accommodate parishioners for centuries. There has been no expansion ever since, which is truly remarkable!

What’s also interesting is that it was built facing west, when it was standard practice to erect churches facing the sea, which is on the East. Nobody is certain why it was designed this way, Cebuano historians believe that the builders wanted to steer clear from the heat of the sun [since mass were held regularly in the morning]. But I left the place still with question in my head, why when all the churches was established facing the sea, why was Li-loan’s San Fernando Rey erected facing west?

My opinion is that the mission that planned building the church sought to pay reverence to the monarch saint by building a church that faces his kingdom in the west.

I could be wrong though.

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Here I saw expert potters; they declare that theirs is the best lechon de leche, but every town here in Cebu claims superiority over the other towns, in the end, the proof is in the eating. Grill stands are also popular here, after tasting their grilled fish and sea weed salads; I could attest that life is good here. It must be. I was beginning to fall in love with the town that I’ve only known in books.

There is also a ruin of “Bantayan sa hari” in Barrio Celero, similar to Mandaue, these fortifications reach Daangbantayan, a sentry system as part of a defense plan laid out to protect the Christian population. The town is proudest of their Parola, built by Taft in the 1900’s. It’s a Beautiful monument of time, history and tradition of diligent Liloanons.

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Another Rizal monument

Another Rizal monument in Liloan's town hall which by the way is a fascinating structure built during the American colonial years. But I was surprised to see who donated the typical Rizal bronze statue – a young representative named Vicente Sotto, a Cebuano literary genius and a respected statesman.

Pride of Mandaue

The resilient Mandauehanon's rebuilt their centuries old house of prayer after the destructive fire

Prehispanic native tradition had an unwritten law, name places after shrubberies. Mandaue was named after a plant [Mantawi] said to have grown [or crawled] in abundance there. The Kastila who came, saw and conquered warped the indigenous name to fit their talking.

Mandaue is home to the finest wood furniture makers in the country, which explains why they have a carpenter for a patron saint. So admired was their wood products that they were exported to Spain in great quantities! Their salt was also well known for its exceptional quality - however, unlike the wood products which still big to this day, the salt making is a shadow of what it used to be, it's an endangered trade now limited to a barrio [reminds me of the Sampaguitas of Tunasan San Pedro!].

San Jose parish, a national shrine, is home to the only life-size carved depiction of the last supper in Asia, el Senor de Cena. Miraculously spared during the fire that partially destroyed the church in 2001.

The extent of the damage was big; it destroyed the centuries old sacristy and icons. Brass plaques attached to the walls now offers a tribute to all the generous donations both monetary and labor that paved the way for its reconstruction.
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the mighty tower

One Fray Bermejo successfully defended the southern places of Cebu, he was called upon to devise a series of protective measures to defeat the Moro raiders - and his approach has succeeded, inspiring the series of defense towers from Daang Bantayan to Mandaue. One of this defense structures is the mighty Bantayan sa Hari [the city's great symbol] armed with cannons and manned 24/7, and this ancient defense system gave a clear break for Catholicism to spread. Unfortunately, this once magnificent watchtower, symbol of Spain's colonial authority and purpose of putting all natives under the bells is in a depressing condition, left to deteriorate, unkindly vandalized, both citizens and government seem to have forgotten about its crucial role in Sugbuanon Christianity, history and culture.

The tower is more than 1 kilometers away from the church of Sn. Jose, this solid watchtower itself is pretty close to the waters now, its situated almost under the old bridge that Macoy built. The tower is perfectly aligned with the church in a straight path [now a concrete pathway ending at the oil depo] with the population right next to it. This could only mean that the church was built away from the shores to protect it from the raiders, a signal from the bantayan would've given sufficient time to defend their sacred Iglesia and tiny town.

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The Beautiful Presidencia

The Presidencia is another interesting structure, its located in front of San Jose. It was built in the 1937 and was inaugurated by the legendary Cebuano Governor S. Cabahug. It is said that Katipuneros fought hard to win it from the Spaniards in '89 where the Presidencia now stands, they vowed not to desert it again, and the hangover wasn't over yet when an American ship demanded its surrender in 1901. The Spanish structure was destroyed by the Americans, the Presidencia we today was only built in '37.

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Mantawi Festival is celebrated on the 1st week of May, I'll try to catch it!