Loboc's Rivercruise

one of the barges.

After walking around San Pedro Apostol, I then cross the old bridge of Loboc were some men directs traffic, the bridge can only accommodate single lane traffic, these traffic enforcers also plays an important role in making sure that the bridge would not be overloaded.

The town old bridge.

The Loboc local government has set up a center for tourist near where the barges for the river cruise are, its complete with pasalubong stalls and very clean comfort rooms. I bought a ticket that cost me P350, it includes the ride, the buffet and the on board entertainment – two guys in floral shirts playing old songs.

Traveling alone has its challenges, since the barge has limited tables, I was assigned to a table where a family is already comfortably seated sharing stories over a delicious meal, it was very awkward, I’m not really a social creature so I was uncomfortable being there but I’m sure that the beautiful family felt the same with having someone like me sit in their table.

After stuffing myself with enough food to last me the whole day, I went to the aisle of the barge where I took pictures of the river and its surrounding environs, they say that this place is our version of the Amazon, it runs through the forest of Bohol, this province offers diversity of exotic and superb natural beauty.

The villagers performing tinikling

Along the river the barge stopped so the passengers can watch local villagers dance, it was an awesome sight. I’m not a fan of dancing but the folk dance brought back memories of my grade school years when our class performed tinikling. The villagers danced graciously, accompanied by a lively strinng band, the tourist were snapping picture like crazy.

The cruise was very relaxing, as it goes downstream – I felt good that I made this trip considering that I was in a very tight budget, the river cruise was a perfect ending for my Bohol vacation.

Tourist enjoying the riverscene

The river of Loboc

From Carmen to the Historic Town of Loboc

The Chocolate hills complex has stalls that sell shirts, I bought a small tee (for a kid relative), it has designs of cute little tarsiers which are a major hit with children. From there I went down towards the highway on foot. The habalhabal operators will ask for P4o (or more ), which is a bit too high since from the hiway to the complex is less than 500 meters, its slightly ascending but nothing that can’t be handle. My only expense in the area was the cheap entrance fee (the complex is Government owned) and the cute shirt.

The buses going back to Tagbilaran are few and rare, I don’t know if it was because it was high noon, but I waited for some 30 minutes. When a bus finally came, it was jam packed! So full that I was tempted to ride on top of it, (upon the suggestion of the conductor) but decided not to, I was worried that it might rain (I had my laptop & camera) I joined the rest of the passengers inside.

It was hot and there was hardly space to move, it was far from comfortable but this is how regular folks here commute - I enjoyed the ride even though it was a hot day. The bus was overloading passengers that when we were entering the steep passages of Bilar a tire went flat!

As the bus descend to the lowlands, I was already dreaming of the buffet I plan to have in Loboc, while on board the barge that would cruise the river. I was very hungry from all the walking. But before doing the cruise, I decided to walk around Loboc.

The beautiful Church of San Pedro Apostol, I found bas relief's of the Papal tiara, Jesuit symbols and the Spanish coat of arms around the church.

Reaching Loboc I went to see some of the Tarsier’s, I didn’t enjoy this experience, I felt bad about this beautiful animals being caged near the riverside. I just can’t take pictures of this little creatures knowing that their being used just for profits. I should’ve visited the Tarsier sanctuary in Corella but there was not enough time.

I then went to the poblacion where Loboc’s historic church and where the renowned river cruise starts, there’s an interesting structure here, probably one of the most stupidest tax funded project that I’ve ever seen. I don’t know when it started but some idiot built a bridge headed straight to the church!

I’m sure that Loboc residents fought hard to preserve their church, they succeeded, the project was canceled and it’s a good thing that they did not brought it down. The half finished bridge now stands a reminder of how wasteful and brainless people our leaders can be.

I went to the church and visited its parish museum. Very few people know that Loboc is where the Jesuits moved their mission after the Moro raids in Baclayon, although still maintaining the church there they set up Loboc as their mission center, having it as the mission’s resedencia, making the town one of the most significant town in early Visayan Catholic history.

Loboc is the oldest parish in Bohol, the Jesuit fathers always possessing the desire to educate, founded a boarding school here for boys (making Loboc the first town to be extensively educated by the Spanish Jesuits). It was here that the Loboc natives were introduced to music. Today, Loboc is known for its music culture.

When the church was taken over by the Recollects upon the expulsion of the Jesuits, they renovated the church and built the impressive tower we see today standing.

Padre Alonso de Humanes, considered by many a holy man, who converted natives from Leyte and some other islands is said to have been buried here. I heard from someone that the Jesuit novitiate in Novaliches have the remains of this devoted Friar. Are they the same person? or was the body moved? I would need to ask around and research on this a bit I guess. Here in Loboc, it is said that his grave site use to be a popular pilgrimage, people believe that this man is a saint – with all his labors to propagating the faith and his record of admirable conduct – making him well loved and respected, I believe he must be.

The dome with its beautiful artwork.

The convent, now part museum part residence, is a three storey building. Much of it is unaltered which was truly exceptional, the second floor often serves as a meeting place, kinda like a convention hall. The murals on the ceiling were done by Rey Francia and one Canuto Avila. Other interesting objects in the church are the retablos (from the Jesuits and Recollects) and the bas reliefs. All of which are in excellent condition.

A Bas relief with the symbols of Colonial Spain.

[
The bell tower and the discontinued stupid bridge.

Choco hills

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Not so cholaty. Chocolate hills complex

Traveling from Tagbiliaran to Carmen is a long ride but the best part of the trip is what you see along the way and of course, Carmen, where the chocolate hills can be viewed from an elevated flat form.

I pass by Loboc River and the town’s many interesting sights, their popular river cruise has been featured on TV and print media (something that I would try before going back to Tagbilaran the same day). The river is extensive and wide, it stretches for kilometers, and its clean – villages and jungle sits right beside it, it was a sight to behold, I wonder how life is living next to it.

The fun part of the long trip to Carmen is the scenery (I try not to count hours but savor the moment!) I saw nothing but nature, pure nature especially when the climb towards the midland started, and it was awesome. When we reached the man made forest, the trees made the sun disappear, the bus had to open its lights inside so that the vehicle would be visible from incoming traffic. The trees here were planted by volunteers decades ago. I’ve never thought that something that looks so natural was a project of men; I guess I’m used to seeing men destroy nature, here they brought it back, and it was a good feeling seeing it.

The road to Carmen and beyond

After the man made forest, we pass by this truck that has plummeted into the ravine, I don’t know if it has been there for some time, I think the driver and his passenger had long been evacuated but the scene reminds people that the road is safe only if people make it safe, the highway have some tricky curves and because it was built on a mountain, some parts of it is drenched with natural forest water. I don’t think I’m skilled enough to drive here, how can someone drive here at night?

I don’t know how long the trip took when we finally reached the poblacion of Bilar, the bus did stop in front of its Mercado, unloading passengers and merchandise, it was the busiest place in Bilar – passing the poblacion one could begin to see some of the Chocolate hills, actually its during summers that these hills becomes brown, making it appear like giant Hershey kisses, but after summer it becomes green and it is now.

My only advice to other nomads commuting to Carmen, always ask for directions, upon boarding the bus in the terminal in Dao inform the conductor or your seatmate or someone who knows that you’re going to Carmen to see the chocolate hills.

I’m often too shy to ask, often just relying on my gut instinct – that’s why I get lost all the time - but I like getting lost, it is when I'm lost that I find myself - moments that I really feel good, it completes the traveler in me, its weird but I've always been this way.

I remember when I was a grade school seeing a poster of chocolate hills in our classroom, along with Taal Volacano and Luneta. These images never left my mind, I wonder if public schools still have those scenic posters. I marveled what it was made of, dreaming that it was really chocolates, well it didn't turn out to be real chocolates but seeing it is one sweet unforgetable experience.

Century old Church of Bilar

Simbahan sa Loay

Is built on an elevated plain, when I got to its grounds there were children playing on its basketball court – but even with this activity the barrio had a very relax and quite environment. Coming from the Clarin house I had to climb stairs of a hundred steps. After catching my breath I went straight inside the church, it was perfect time to pray, I was completely alone, not a soul in sight.

The façade is being cemented on the side using hollow blocks but the original facade could still be seen, according to the book Philippine Churches it was finished in 1822 with semicircular arched main entrance at the first level, rectangular windows on the second level and a low triangular pediment topped by allegorical figures of faith, Hope and Charity.

The pulpit has a tornavoz or portavoz which is a sounding board built on top of the pulpito to amplification purposes – necessity is indeed the mother of all invention. Loay was a Recollect mission, and like Baclayon which became theirs, the church is filled with icons of their devotion. These pulpito’s once useful structures are no longer used, seeing it makes me imagine how mass was once like and I’m glad to see that most are left standing.

The ceiling is painted with murals by Ray Francia in 1927; he must’ve been a very busy man since he had several works of this kind all over the island during his days. There is pipe organ which was installed in 1841, I don’t know if it’s still working but this musical instrument definitely needs some restoration.

The octagonal bell is just a few feet away from the church, unlike other bell towers this one have a domed roof. What was previously a convent is now a beautiful school; the Holy Trinity Academy was founded in the mid 1950’s.

The Church of the Holy Trinity is about 18 kilometers from Tagbilaran.


Loay church

Bas Relief that can be found in the bell tower.


An example of a good restoration job, while the roofing was upgraded, the original building was left untouched, preserving its architectural integrity.

Albuquerque!

I took this picture of Albuquerque's Sta. Monica churhc, while I was inside the bus, I was headed to Carmen, I regret not having time to explore it, but if you have time after your visit to Baclayon, try going here, it’s only a 10 minute ride from Baclayon. Its bell tower is of unique Moorish design and one could see the Pasadizo, a short bridge that connects the church to the convent, they say it can only be found here but this I’m sure, it precedes our modern day overpasses!

Casa Clarin in Loay

After Baclayon, I decided to visit another place I’ve read about, Casa Clarin in Loay. The Clarin’s were known for their political roles during the American years, I would not be surprised some of them are still politicos.

The house was built in 1840, an NHI marker stands in front of it, and it’s superbly preserved. I took a look inside the house and it was as if the prominent family still lives there, everything was in order. It houses the family’s antique's which are mostly American era objects.

The ancestral house is in very good condition I think, structurally it feels sound, my only worry was that its susceptible to fire, the roof is covered in nipa and the entire house is made of wood. There were indications of anay presence; hopefully they get controlled before they extend their damage.

The garden is now a restaurant, Café Olegario. Bea Zobel was a guest of honor when it opened, it’s a quite area where people can enjoy Loayan delicacies and Boholano style cooking - but I immediately made an exit when I found out how much a meal would cost me (I only have my pamasaje with me) but I’m sure most tourist can enjoy their meals in the cafe, the place and the food is worth it.

I was looking for someone to take my picture outside the house when I found a boy – who never shied away, he was a gamer! I had to teach him how to focus the camera and shoot, it took some time, the people passing by was having a good laugh, because the boy can’t seem to make it work which was really funny, he finally did, children are fast learners and this one is – you be the judge if the boy have future in photo journalism.

The Heart of Baclayon

The mission of Baclayon was established by two Jesuits Juan de Torres and Gabriel Sanchez who arrived in Bohol on 17 November 1596. They came from Cebu. Torres reports that he could not find a decent place to celebrate Mass, there wasn't even a servicable table in the dwelling they stayed in. The Jesuit convinced the inhabitants to build a church, which they accomplished in no time. This was most likely a bamboo and thatch church. Baclayon served at one time as the residentia or center of the Bohol missions, where the superior resided. Baclayon was one of two towns that did not join the Diwata revolt (1621), remaining steadfast in the Christian faith. Despite claims that the present stone church in Baclayon is the oldest in the Philippines, evidence places the construction of the church to 1727. The belief that the church was built in 1595 may have come because of a 19th century report by the Recollects that the mission was founded in 1595; but the same report lists two other dates 1593 and 1594. The date 1595 inscribed on the church façade is a later addition. The adjoining but separate tower may have been started by the Jesuits, but it was completed during the administration of the Recollects, ca. 1777 as a stone inscription on the tower indicates. The inscription was recently defaced. The church complex was fortified with a wall built by the Jesuits. The walls' coral stones were used by the Recollects when they built a new wing of the convento in 1872.


This church is source of local pride and unity among Baclayanons, as the lady tour guide in the parish museum told her visitors, “Baclayon church is our heart”, for them it’s not only the symbol of religious unity among the Catholic residents, it stands for their way of life, traditions passed down through the years.

Writers from past and present wrote about its timeless beauty. I like the church’s simplicity and elegance, its massive bell tower is an imposing structure – I’ve never seen nothing like it before.

The Retablo’s have icons of Recollect devotion, but the Jesuit’s, who erected the church, the convent and the bell tower left their familiar motto, Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam, in the main altar, proof of their hard pioneering labor establishing Baclayon.

The museo is full of relics! The museo, once the convento is in itself a monument of the town's glorious past. It defies the elements as it continues to serve its visitors and residents.

The painting in the ceiling was a recent addition, sometime 1980’s if I’m not mistaken, some scholars believes that the artwork is out of place.

I appreciate the restoration so much – hardly anything was changed, it’s a great example that old structures with historic value need not be upgraded or beautified or rebuilt, it just needs little care and attention that’s all.

Viva La Parroquia la Purisima Concepcion de Maria!

Finally Baclayon

"You must be thinking, "that's a great shot, Arnaldo, who took it?", well I took the liberty of taking my own picture, lets call it self portrait, this are all for show, yes, after these dramatic "back pose" shots I'll go back and get my tripod & camera and there were many occasions that the people around would look at me with "what an idiot!" look in their faces! [/caption]

Around Tagbilaran

I left my house at around 4am Saturday, headed straight to Pier 3 – where a Supercat (Catamaran model) regularly transport people from Cebu to Tagbilaran. It was there that I realized that I was too early for the trip, I was told by a porter in the pier that the earliest ship bound to Bohol is in Pier 1 but I decided to stick with these popular ferries.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450" caption="At the port there were several of these children that will dive for money that gets thrown in the water"][/caption]

The Supercat was on the dot. Once boarded, it left the port and was in Tagbilaran pass 10. At the Tagbilarn port, I observed the crystal clear water; I don’t know its depth  but it so clear that you could see the sands and the fishes underneath. It is true that Bohol remains as one of the cleanest provinces in the country. I then flagged a tricycle and contracted the driver to bring me to three places in Tagbilaran, before going here I had already planned everything, my list is long and I only have two days to complete this excursion.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="396" caption="The Cathedral of St. Joseph the Worker"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="401" caption="One of the original bells brought down from the tower, exposed to all the elements while its on display just outside the Cathdral"][/caption]

The province being one of the first to be Christianized offers a great deal of treasures for heritage tourist. The construction of churches and convents was a community task, referred to as polo y servicio. Often mistaken as a form of forced labor, most of the labor rendered was essentially acts of Filipino religiosity and that the majority Boholano’s has remained faithful to their Catholic devotion is a tribute to the tradition their ancestors had practiced.

I first visited Bohol’s Cathedral, built to honor St. Joseph the worker, it was first built in 1787 and was burned to in 1798 (along with its convent). In 1839, Fray Valero de San Sebastian rebuilt the church; it took him 16 years to finish. The Cathedral’s bell tower is very impressive, it has 6 bells – with embossed dates, interesting is that the bells does not have similar years. This could only be explained by the years it took to complete the tower which was headed by the Recollect Fray Jose Sanchez. A certain Fray Enciso added iron cornices, chandeliers and tisa roofing in 1884 – 1894.

The Cathedral is among the first six churches built by the true pioneers of the Bohol territory, the Jesuits – all their church and properties were given to the Recollect when the black robes were expelled. This Neo-Romanesque church is one of the finest churches in Central Visayas, it has stood the test of time for centuries but in 1950 its coral stone facade were covered by cement and renovations afterwards has altered some of its most beautiful original materials.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="410" caption="One of the oldest casa in Tagbilaran"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="418" caption="An interesting casa which is said to have been made in the late 1800's"][/caption]

After the Cathedral I went to the old houses near Tagbilaran causeway, this area is the original Tagbilaran here one could find the villas of the rich Tagbilaran residents. In Sitio Ubos one could Casa Rocha, it was closed when I got there but all over the quarter I found houses that give the area a Filipino character, the houses were built in style that united Hispanic inspiration and Filipino ingenuity. What’s truly amazing is that the casa’s architectural integrity has remained whole for centuries.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="428" caption="Plaza Principe across is the park and the Cathedral, shown here being repainted"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="An interesting old house right beside the Museo"][/caption]

Just in front of the Cathedral is the provincial capitol building which was before as Plaza del Principe founded in 1860. On its left is Bohol Museum, formerly the province library it was an old school during the Spanish era called Escuela La Nina.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="420" caption="Legaspi and his new friend "][/caption]

Next stop was the blood compact site, the symbolism of this act has signified a coming together of what would later become known as the Filipinos and the conquering Imperialist Spain. What’s wrong about the monument is that it was more like an inuman, tagayan as one tourist perkily suggested. The artist, the great Boholano sculptor Napoleon Abueva, was not informed that Legaspi and the famed Bojolano chieftain drew blood from their chest to mark  their accord. The depiction of the ala-KKK wrist cut is untrue as Legazpi's letter would reveal. The other fact is that Loay is the site of Pacto de Sangre.

After the Sandugo site, I intended to go to Panglao island – known for its white sand beaches to many tourist, I planned to visit the churches of Panglao and Dauis as they have been known to have marvelous architectural style, unfortunately heavy rains prevented me to do so, I tried to let it pass but it continued till night time. I had to skip the two sites I long wanted to see, specially Dauis’ Assumption of our Lady for  its miraculous well inside the church said to have sprung miraculously, its located at the foot of the altar.

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Supercat: Pier 3 Schedule

Cebu – Tagbilaran 830, 0030 & 1630

Tagbilaran – Cebu 1030, 1430 & 1830

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*27 June 2009

The Two Towers of Liloan

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="403" caption="The best known landmark in Lilo-an is its historic lighthouse at Bagacay Point"][/caption]

During my last visit to the beautiful town of Liloan, south of Cebu city I spent almost the whole day studying the Iglesia of San Fernando del Rey, a church that has been a rich source of local folklore. It took so much of my time that I never got the chance to visit the parola and the town's bantayan sa hari.

And so I went back, devoting one Saturday looking for that famed American era Parola and that forgotten watch tower along its coastline.

The Parola or the Bagacay Point lighthouse, which now figures prominently in the town’s insignia, was originally built by the Spaniards in 1857. It’s ideal location made the Americans decide to build a new tower, brighter and taller. William Howard Taft, the first American Governor ordered the construction of the 72 feet parola and it was finish in 1904.

The Parola is treasured among the locals, respected as the symbol of the coastal town - a heritage site that they've protected for more than 100 years. Liloanons enjoys its lush grounds and its scenic beauty with the sea as its background – families and lovers can be found under tall trees while the circular road serves as an ideal practice for novice motorcycle riders. There is a subdivision being develop near the Parola, the developers is actually using the lighthouse in their marketing brochures.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="375" caption="Fray Bermejo's "bantayan sa hari""][/caption]

The other tower is Liloan’s Bantayan sa Hari, a forgotten historical treasure that is located near the Parola, it is often mistaken as the Parola that the Spaniards built. This sentry that looks like a chess piece was built during the height of Moro raids, these amazing small sentry structures was conceptualized by Fray Bermejo, who doubled as defence tactician and whose strategy forever secured the coastlines of the growing Christian population of Cebu.

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* 6  June 2009

University of San Carlos

Nanay’s USC

I have long wondered what University of San Carlos looks like. My mom would frequently mention this school, telling how good its programs were; since it’s not in Manila I wasn’t interested. Several of her relatives and friends during the 1950’s went to this school.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="390" caption="The letter inviting the SVD Superior in Manila to take over the school"][/caption]

Dumaguete is far from San Carlos Negros Occidental, my Nanay’s town. San Carlos City is closer to Cebu than the two provincial capital of Negros (Dumaguete & Bacolod). She tells me stories of her together with her brothers wonder what the thick smoke originating from across the sea, when she got older she realized that it was Toledo City, at that time one of the most progressive towns of Cebu because of its mining industry.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="430" caption="The oldest Filipino educational Institution"][/caption]

The Oldest

Very few people know that this school is the oldest being founded by the Jesuits in 1595.  The Jesuit’s expulsion in 1769 stopped the school’s operation. The German order of Societas Verbi Divini (SVD) led the school post revolution upon the invitation of Cebu’s Obispo. The Dominicans and the Vincentians were known to have administered the colegio in the past.

Its claim to be the oldest school is disputed by some scholars pointing to the fact that UST being founded in 1611 was only interrupted during WWII – gathering its years of service would be greater than that of USC which suffered a halt in their service during the Jesuits’ expulsion. But if the foundation of the colegio is to be the basis, it would be the first school in the islands – and I believe it is. Some of its notable alumni include Sergio Osmena, Marcelo Fernan, Vicente Sotto, Vicente Rama and Mariano Cuenco.



The Museum



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Exhibit of the recent archeological finds of Cebu"][/caption]



I’ve always wanted to visit the schools museum ever since I read about it some few months back, from what I’ve read; they have remarkable artifacts in their possession – and it did not disappoint this museum aficionado. Although it’s relatively small, the museum’s collection was very impressive.

The museum was founded by Father Rudolf Rahmann, SVD, an anthropologist and former university president (1967). It is located on Calle P. del Rosario main building’s entrance. It has four wonderful galleries: Spanish colonial, ethnographic, archaeological and natural science.

I marveled at the religious relics in the Spanish colonial section. The artistic retablo of the Virgen del Regla from Mactan can be found here. Coins, images and various altar pieces are on display. There were baptismal records in Spanish giving evidence of the Catholic heritage of the Filipino.

The ethnographic collection includes skulls deformed by ancient tribal practice. Pre-Filipino rituals like teeth mutilation are detailed in pictures and actual samples. Weapons, tools, customes, ornaments and betel chewing containers are exhibited.

The museum is free for its students while it will cost only P30 for the general public (P10 for students outside USC). From Monday to Friday it opens its door from 8:30 PM to 5:30 PM and on Saturday’s it operates half day.

Further information contact: Ms Marlene Samson (Curator) at 63 32 253 1000 loc. 191

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*13 June 2009

Paco Church in Calle Paz

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="324" caption="Church of San Francisco de Dilao"][/caption]

With all the amazing stories I heard about this church since I was a child and its close proximity to where we live – believe it or not this is the first time I visited Paco church. I remember passing along the place many many times during my secondary school, having spent some of my tambay years in the surrounding area but for some reason I never visited  the iglesia.

Just like all stone church it started as straws and bamboos. What's fascinating about the church is that it’s probably the only church that endured the most devastation in Philippine history and that in its place still stands an inspiring place of worship is truly a miracle. It was said to have been destroyed during the Chinese insurrection in 1602, the English occupation in 1782, a massive typhoon, earthquakes of 1852 and 1881.

The coming of the new century was not less forgiving, on 5 February 1899, during a violent encounter between the Filipino revolutionaries and the Americans. The imperialist Americans bombed and shattered the church in to pieces. This uncontrolled disregard for Filipino churches by the Americans would carry on during the Japanese occupation, when most of the destruction in the capital was caused by their attempt to recapture it.

An interesting side story here is that the Iglesia of San Fernando de Dilao was actually formed to serve the growing Japanese residents of old Paco, Dilao was said to have originated from the yellowish tinge of their skin. It’s hard to picture that a strong Japanese community once exist in Paco, “many were samurai”; some were even utilized in the conquest of Mindanao. Some of these isolated Japones folks were in Manila even before the Spanish conquest, it increased its number in the early 1600’s when “refugees” from Imperial Japan found a safe haven in Manila. The Franciscans were designated to preach to the Japanese in Dilao, the Jesuits then went on to take San Miguel – preaching to the Japanese in the south bank of the Pasig River. This ethnic group became so immense that they became a threat to the Spanish government – the Spaniards subsequently began deporting the Japanese to their native land.

Today’s Paco Church is built induring the American era (1931), which should explain its neo-classical inspired front. Its twin bell tower is impressive; it also has a “terraced arcaded portico” over the main entrance.

Binondo

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="436" caption="Calle Ongpin - the busiest street of Chinatown"][/caption]

I went to Ongpin with one thing in mind. Eat. So after rediscovering the town of my childhood I headed straight to Binondo. From hopia to jewelry, this place seems to have it all – and amidst all the chaos and traffic you find beauty. Boticas that sells ointments and herbs, jewelry stores, groceries with of course Chinese things, fruit stalls and one unique store that sells fountain pens.

Calesa’s still go around Chinatown, it’s truly fascinating, with all the vehicle and human traffic, somehow these relic of Manila’s past still subsist.

My mother use to tell us that Binondo is an expensive place – so whenever were in the area we would always end up eating at that tasty burger joint near the overpass in Quiapo if not some cheap panciteria. Binondo was after all the financial capital of the yesteryears, but every once in a blue moon, some extra money from Papa’s sueldo would give the family a merry Sunday at some pricey resto in Binondo!

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="423" caption="The North Bridge"][/caption]

I strolled around Chinatown for awhile then settled to try out the food hawkers in the north bridge, its different from the other food shops in Ongpins because the eateries sits alongside the filthy estero. Some people could be bothered with the estero’s presence but not me really. Nothing could spoil my appetite in Chinatown. The place serves awesome dishes, I ordered crab rice and beef with ampalaya, I’ve never eaten in this part of Chinatown before, though I find it a bit pricey – it was nonetheless irresistible and delectable!

So the day ends, what a pleasant treat (for myself!) for a long day that somehow ended in Binondo. Now, I have to haul my ass back to Cebu!

My Santa Ana

The house that built Sta Ana


Old home, Santa Ana Manila

I went home last Saturday, 19^th of June, in Muntinlupa - our home for the last decade. It was a pleasant feeling seeing my old parents and two of my brothers – healthy and happy, I’m the happiest for everything is well back home.

The following day, Sunday, I went to Santa Ana – my birthplace. We spent some time here before moving to Makati. I consider myself lucky for I can call myself a Manileno – and what better time to be proud of the ever loyal city than in June (24th), when it celebrates its always drizzly foundation day.

Originally celebrated as "Foundation Day", designated by the great Alcalde of Manila, Arsenio Lacson, the announcement was heavily criticized by nationalist that the word "foundation" is erroneous since a Manila existed long before Legazpi came, for this Quijano de Manila wrote "Lacson acted on Faustian man’s obsession with definite historical data; an invented ‘nationalist’ date to mark the foundation of pre-1571 Manila would be pure myth-making", unfortunately or fortunately for some, Villegas gave in to the criticism and ended up changing its name from Manila's foundation day to "Araw ng Maynila".

Santa Ana de Sapa, as it was known during the Spanish years was Namayan, pre-colonial settlement prior to becoming a Filipino town. Excavations exposed that the river place is home to waterway dwellers – the kingdom of Namayan, seated in the Santa Ana of today was said to have stretched as far as La Laguna.

I have finally found my old town. Although I could not recall a single memory of Santa Ana, it felt right, here I learned how to walk and play and pray.

Sta Ana Church

Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados, declared a national shrine, is a historical Franciscan church that has been around since 1578 – it is the first ever mission outside Intramuros. However it was only in 1720, when Fray Vicente Ingles headed the construction of the iglesia using hard materials, the project the good Priest started was completed in 1725.

The beautiful church was badly damaged during the American bombing of Manila, the liberation brought massive destruction, it was during this period that Intramuros lost almost all of its iglesia. It was indeed a blessing that the great Filipino Architect, Juan Nakpil and Engineer Arturo Mañalac took on the project of restoring the old church.

The church houses the miraculous image of Señora de los Desamparados, a replica of the one in Vallodolid. It is said that both icon was made to touch each other before it was sent here in 1719 by Fray Ingles. At the back of the altar is an “elaborately carved reredos behind the main altar patterned after the Basilica of St. Peter in Rome”.

At the back of the church there is a Santa Ana cultural and traditional symbol. La Virgen del Pozo. A water well that was built in 1720 was so popular here that people were said to line up here. For centuries, this place has been a location of miracles for the Manileño, a well that can be found here was said to possess miraculous powers. So famous is the well that people continually offered flowers, candles and food for thanksgiving until it was closed down by the Americans during the cholera outbreak.


The Chines Filipino's temple dedicated to the our Lady of the Abandoned

The Virgen del Pozo also became a tradition for the Chinese Filipino, confirmation of this is their temple that was built in front of the legendary well. A historical marker states, “it became a tradition for some Chinese devotees of Virgen del Pozo to visit this little Chapel on their new year celebration to offer various intentions after coming from the Chinese Buddhist temple located just opposite the site…the folks learned the custom of veneration by lighting candles with bowed heads and clasped hands while kneeling on provided cushions…call it a legend or a tradition, the Virgin of the Well and her shrine have a religious and historical value to the folks of Santa Ana, the waters that once sprung from this well will indeed become a symbol not only of their love and devotion for their patroness but moreover, it will be a testimony of their living faith as God’s people and Maria’s children”.

Osmena Peak

With the Mountain kiddos

" The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it..."

- Antoine de Saint-Exupery

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We decided to meet with the rest of the climbers at the gasoline station near the mercado of Carbon, there were trips that heads directly to Mantalungon, and we were told that it leaves at around 6AM but the bus had engine trouble – and we just can’t afford waste time. We had to go to the south station and ride a bus that would take us to Dalaguete town proper.

At the poblacion of quiet Dalaguete, close to several tiendas (one of which is Julies – a favorite!) upon disembarking from the multicab – we were swarmed by habalhabal operators, sensing that we were headed to Matalungon trail.

The habalhabal ride is quite an experience; the ride uphill takes around 20-25 minutes. The trip was rough, road was covered in dust, it was one helluva trip. The only downside is that you end up with sore butt cheeks. We all got off in Mantalungon public market.

Recognized as the “vegetable basket of Cebu”, its chilly climate and rich earth, offers an ideal condition for farming vegetables, variety that are known to favor mild climate. Walking en route to the trail, we saw several homes and schools, it was remarkable because of the barrio’s distance from the poblacion and and the main road. Mantalongon is indeed a spectacular mountain barrio.

The trek is visibly marked, it was just a matter of following it to the top– and since the mountain villagers, mostly farmers, are everywhere, scattered throughout the mountain you can always ask for instructions. On the way to the top, we pass by little clear streams and pleasant vegetable farms. Nearing the peak, some kids led the group to the top, they made climbing look easy.

The people of Dalaguete, especially the Mantalongon villagers are good-natured people. I’ve read experiences (most are not even firsthand) posted over the net about the place being unsafe particularly for campers. I believe that it’s not a dangerous location - like all places you’ll just have take precautionary measures, somehow unverified accounts of crimes committed in the mountain are exaggerations.

We reached the peak pass 12 noon, we ate a light meal and rested on the summit for hours, taking pleasure the mountain offers - islands of Bohol, Negros Oriental and Siquijor all clearly visible. The peak grants its visitors a view of Cebu’s coast to the west and east.

Not so Divina

Pueblo gate

My disappointment with the administrators of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arkangel was aggravated by its impolite employees at the parish office during my recent visit. After being heavily criticized by popular heritage conservationist and the media for destroying the icons and retablo of the church. I thought that these people would be more sensitive but I believe all the criticisms achieved the opposite.

As the streamer of the church’s museum indicates, it is open Saturday, like most normal museum – weekends are the best time to lure visitors to stopover. I then started to wonder why it’s close. I went to the church office only to be greeted by its unfriendly staff; didn’t even bother to answer when I asked if the museum will open that day.

I thought at first that it could be my Bisaya, admittedly not very good, so I asked again, this time in English, a language Cebuano’s prefer over Tagalog. “Ma’am, can someone help me, I want to visit the museum, and will it be open today? I’m from Manila po”, my exact words – unbelievably the woman snapped back and said “Please comeback next time!”. It was a rude reaction from someone you expect to be ready to lend a hand.

Admittedly I was lying by saying that I was from Manila since I’m already residing in Cebu City, I lied – but obviously it had no effects.

It could be a simple case of confusion; I said to myself, after all, this is not the first time I’ve been misunderstood around here. So, believe it or not, after being snubbed, I left that place still feeling upbeat, if this people can’t help me someone else would, after all I’m in tourist friendly Argao.

So I started to look for someone, I first spoke with an old gentleman who was cleaning the altar. “Wait for monsignor, he’ll come down for the first communion of the children, he can help you Sir”, so wait I did. After an hour the good Padre came down, as customary for Catolicos, I asked for his blessing by kissing his hand.

I never wasted time and went straight to the point. He then called the kind chap who endorsed me to him, he told him to get someone from the office. He went back with Divina, the supladita from the Parish office. Yes, it was Divina and me again; the priest gave her clear instructions in Bisaya, “get the key and assist him”.

After lying that I was arrogant and some other stuff that she made up to make the priest believe that I was a bad bad sightseer (thank God that I could understand the language) and throwing temper tantrums like that of a child, she then grudgingly said the magic words “yes, Father”.

After reaching her small office, she mockingly told me to wait, after 30 minutes, standing in front of her booth while she’s chit chatting and texting – I realized what this perra was trying to do. I was stupid to believe that this character will still help me, obviously she was upset about having to assist me after she had repulsed me the first time, there was no way in hell that she would help me now!

I then decided to leave, what a shame that the Parish have these cabrones in their payroll. If Argao wants more visitors, it has to make sure that the museum and church is being managed by capable hands – when I went to the municipal tourist center to lodge a complaint (even if I know that the church operate independently from the local government) it was also close because according to a bystander at the municipio, “its Saturday!” - Isn’t it that weekends are when tourist usually comes?

These people in the parish office is just one small group, they don't represent the town nor its values, too bad for me I met them. I would like to leave a piece of advice and a few words of wisdom for the parish employees: Take a moment to place yourself in the shoes of the tourists, who took time to visit your still splendid church (even after your parish priest ruined the retablo and the capella posas’) and its museum, tourist who traveled far and long to pay homage to the parish. Help ease their weary roaming bodies with some simple kindness.

Pueblo Argao

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="347" caption="One of Argao's pueblo gates that opens to the sea"][/caption]

Argao 400

One of Cebu’s most popular town is Argao. The town was established as pueblo in the year 1608. No records of it being founded in 1608 exist but the town’s citizens by tradition acknowledge 1608 as their foundation year. In 2008, they avidly celebrated their 400^th year with festivities and fireworks. The ‘08 feast was celebrated for nine straight days with Pitlagong Festival, a celebration known for its dance competition as one of its highlights. A night was also spared to honor the finest son’s and daughter’s of Argao.

The book, Argao 400: Legend and History, written by T.L. Sales under the commission of Mayor Edsel Galeos was launched during the festivities,  a very engaging book that offers its readers with mesmerizing essays with reference to the town’s humble beginnings and its most important events.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="377" caption="Inside looking out (taken inside the municipio)"][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="299" caption="The beautiful ceiling painting of San Miguel"][/caption]

San Miguel el Arkangel de Argao

The oldest documents and relics can be found in San Miguel, a beautiful baroque-rococo church annexed by a convent that now serves as a museum. The first parish began in 1733 (a recent marker outside the church states the year 1734) and was only wholly completed in 1788. Bishop Santos Gomez Maranon is credited to have pressed for the construction of a church made of hard materials in 1800’s. During his time as Cebu’s religious director, he established several churches and convents, a legacy unmatched by his predecessors.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="412" caption="The great Iglesia of Argao"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="334" caption="A beautiful door in the left portion of the church"][/caption]

Argao was officially assigned to a certain Hernando de Monroy as encomienda. It remained a visita (vicaria) under Carcar with Nuestra Sra. De Gracia as its patron in 21 June 1599. In 1730’s there were demands by the principales of Carcar to have a  permanent parish for Argao as historically Carcar was the older and being the principal pueblo is not suppose to split their Padre with any town. The Augustinian’s then established the town parish in 16 October 1733 with San Miguel as its patron.

In the feast day of San Miguel in 1998, a town council tasked to repair the Iglesia, headed by popular Argawanon, Hilario Davided Jr., presented the completion of restoration works that “restored her and her premises to the original beauty and grandeur – in gratitude to her forebears who built her, in thanksgiving to God for the countless blessings he showered and continues to shower upon them, as an expression of the constancy of their love for our lady and their devotion to their patron saint and protector”.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="397" caption="The municipio"][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="403" caption="The road that leads to the sea"][/caption]

The Bermejo effect

The legendary Friar, Julian Bermejo once served Argao as its parish priest (1802-04). The brilliant Padre Cura is credited for having defended towns from Oslob to Daan Bantayan against the Moro raiders with his simple but ingenious baluartes. This happy state of affairs brought about by the success of keeping the town safe from pirates produced a boom in commerce and in population.

In 1890, the town’s residents was said to be the highest in the province with 31,058 inhabitants. The town’s population drew the attention of the Americanos and Teofisto Guingona Sr., head of the Bureau of Non-Christians, he then enticed the Argawanon’s to migrate under the promise of better opportunities’. The American’s encouraged these settlements in order to press forward their interest in the Moro lands.






[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="392" caption="The canons that defended the town from pirates"][/caption]



The Argao Walled Complex

An enclosure built with meter thick walls kept the towns Iglesia and its administrative building safe. Reminiscent of the gates of Intramuros, the fortifications and its portals were positioned strategically; the eastern gates were said to have doubled as a sentry structure. On the east side the Puerto opens to the sea, this same gate received the galleon calls in the few occasions it visited the prosperous town. This portal also had a mortuary chapel that was concealed for years because of a clinic that was constructed next to it. When the local government tore down the clinic, the chapel was revealed!

The other portals were opened to the main calles that made the complex accessible to the Argawanons. The gates are placed in a triangular arrangement. At its center is the Plaza Mayor that served the public as its recreational center, it had several gardens, benches and was separated by a low partition from the parque of the Iglesia.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="395" caption="one of the massive pueblo gate, most of the surviving old houses are American colonial "][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="331" caption="The Santos now looking more like trophies"][/caption]

The Disastrous Changes!

The controversy of the changes made by a priest who ordered to have portions of the retablo and its main statues to be painted in gold was widely condemned. The ill judgment of the priest obviously failed to consider the rules of heritage conservation. The centuries old icon all of a sudden became golden santos that disappointingly are unpleasant to the eyes for it appeared contemporary, worst is that it masked forever the exquisiteness and detail of its artistic creation.

The reckless renovation deprived the proud people of Argao a due recognition for their Iglesia to be one of the country’s very few World Heritage Site!

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[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="399" caption="The sea of Argao, capping a wonderful tour"][/caption]

Casa Gorordo

The main casa where four generations of the Gorordo's lived. A beautiful collection Martino Abellana's painting is exhibited on the first floor.

The Gorordo house is a Cebuano heritage icon. It takes its name from a prosperous family of merchant, the Gorordos.

Juan Isidro de Gorordo, a Spaniard bought the house from a certain Alejandro Reynes Y Rosales. Four generations of Gorordos lived in the house, including Juan Gorordo, Cebu’s first Filipino Bishop.Casa Gorordo is amazingly well preserved, thanks to the Ramon Aboitiz Foundation who acquired it sometime 1990’s. After restoration works, it opened as a museum.

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The other Casa of Casa Gorordo where amateur art from young Cebuano artist are displayed

Unlike the house museum in Intramuros, Casa Gorordo is not a re-creation, there were no alteration made in the structure, in fact most of the furniture are originals. This bahay na bato is perhaps one the most well preserved I've ever seen. The Aboitiz foundation has done a marvelous job ensuring Filipino visitors would understand what a classic Hispano Filipino life was like.

Banner at the entrance of Casa Gorordo