University of San Carlos

Nanay’s USC

I have long wondered what University of San Carlos looks like. My mom would frequently mention this school, telling how good its programs were; since it’s not in Manila I wasn’t interested. Several of her relatives and friends during the 1950’s went to this school.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="390" caption="The letter inviting the SVD Superior in Manila to take over the school"][/caption]

Dumaguete is far from San Carlos Negros Occidental, my Nanay’s town. San Carlos City is closer to Cebu than the two provincial capital of Negros (Dumaguete & Bacolod). She tells me stories of her together with her brothers wonder what the thick smoke originating from across the sea, when she got older she realized that it was Toledo City, at that time one of the most progressive towns of Cebu because of its mining industry.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="430" caption="The oldest Filipino educational Institution"][/caption]

The Oldest

Very few people know that this school is the oldest being founded by the Jesuits in 1595.  The Jesuit’s expulsion in 1769 stopped the school’s operation. The German order of Societas Verbi Divini (SVD) led the school post revolution upon the invitation of Cebu’s Obispo. The Dominicans and the Vincentians were known to have administered the colegio in the past.

Its claim to be the oldest school is disputed by some scholars pointing to the fact that UST being founded in 1611 was only interrupted during WWII – gathering its years of service would be greater than that of USC which suffered a halt in their service during the Jesuits’ expulsion. But if the foundation of the colegio is to be the basis, it would be the first school in the islands – and I believe it is. Some of its notable alumni include Sergio Osmena, Marcelo Fernan, Vicente Sotto, Vicente Rama and Mariano Cuenco.



The Museum



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Exhibit of the recent archeological finds of Cebu"][/caption]



I’ve always wanted to visit the schools museum ever since I read about it some few months back, from what I’ve read; they have remarkable artifacts in their possession – and it did not disappoint this museum aficionado. Although it’s relatively small, the museum’s collection was very impressive.

The museum was founded by Father Rudolf Rahmann, SVD, an anthropologist and former university president (1967). It is located on Calle P. del Rosario main building’s entrance. It has four wonderful galleries: Spanish colonial, ethnographic, archaeological and natural science.

I marveled at the religious relics in the Spanish colonial section. The artistic retablo of the Virgen del Regla from Mactan can be found here. Coins, images and various altar pieces are on display. There were baptismal records in Spanish giving evidence of the Catholic heritage of the Filipino.

The ethnographic collection includes skulls deformed by ancient tribal practice. Pre-Filipino rituals like teeth mutilation are detailed in pictures and actual samples. Weapons, tools, customes, ornaments and betel chewing containers are exhibited.

The museum is free for its students while it will cost only P30 for the general public (P10 for students outside USC). From Monday to Friday it opens its door from 8:30 PM to 5:30 PM and on Saturday’s it operates half day.

Further information contact: Ms Marlene Samson (Curator) at 63 32 253 1000 loc. 191

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*13 June 2009

Paco Church in Calle Paz

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="324" caption="Church of San Francisco de Dilao"][/caption]

With all the amazing stories I heard about this church since I was a child and its close proximity to where we live – believe it or not this is the first time I visited Paco church. I remember passing along the place many many times during my secondary school, having spent some of my tambay years in the surrounding area but for some reason I never visited  the iglesia.

Just like all stone church it started as straws and bamboos. What's fascinating about the church is that it’s probably the only church that endured the most devastation in Philippine history and that in its place still stands an inspiring place of worship is truly a miracle. It was said to have been destroyed during the Chinese insurrection in 1602, the English occupation in 1782, a massive typhoon, earthquakes of 1852 and 1881.

The coming of the new century was not less forgiving, on 5 February 1899, during a violent encounter between the Filipino revolutionaries and the Americans. The imperialist Americans bombed and shattered the church in to pieces. This uncontrolled disregard for Filipino churches by the Americans would carry on during the Japanese occupation, when most of the destruction in the capital was caused by their attempt to recapture it.

An interesting side story here is that the Iglesia of San Fernando de Dilao was actually formed to serve the growing Japanese residents of old Paco, Dilao was said to have originated from the yellowish tinge of their skin. It’s hard to picture that a strong Japanese community once exist in Paco, “many were samurai”; some were even utilized in the conquest of Mindanao. Some of these isolated Japones folks were in Manila even before the Spanish conquest, it increased its number in the early 1600’s when “refugees” from Imperial Japan found a safe haven in Manila. The Franciscans were designated to preach to the Japanese in Dilao, the Jesuits then went on to take San Miguel – preaching to the Japanese in the south bank of the Pasig River. This ethnic group became so immense that they became a threat to the Spanish government – the Spaniards subsequently began deporting the Japanese to their native land.

Today’s Paco Church is built induring the American era (1931), which should explain its neo-classical inspired front. Its twin bell tower is impressive; it also has a “terraced arcaded portico” over the main entrance.

Binondo

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="436" caption="Calle Ongpin - the busiest street of Chinatown"][/caption]

I went to Ongpin with one thing in mind. Eat. So after rediscovering the town of my childhood I headed straight to Binondo. From hopia to jewelry, this place seems to have it all – and amidst all the chaos and traffic you find beauty. Boticas that sells ointments and herbs, jewelry stores, groceries with of course Chinese things, fruit stalls and one unique store that sells fountain pens.

Calesa’s still go around Chinatown, it’s truly fascinating, with all the vehicle and human traffic, somehow these relic of Manila’s past still subsist.

My mother use to tell us that Binondo is an expensive place – so whenever were in the area we would always end up eating at that tasty burger joint near the overpass in Quiapo if not some cheap panciteria. Binondo was after all the financial capital of the yesteryears, but every once in a blue moon, some extra money from Papa’s sueldo would give the family a merry Sunday at some pricey resto in Binondo!

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="423" caption="The North Bridge"][/caption]

I strolled around Chinatown for awhile then settled to try out the food hawkers in the north bridge, its different from the other food shops in Ongpins because the eateries sits alongside the filthy estero. Some people could be bothered with the estero’s presence but not me really. Nothing could spoil my appetite in Chinatown. The place serves awesome dishes, I ordered crab rice and beef with ampalaya, I’ve never eaten in this part of Chinatown before, though I find it a bit pricey – it was nonetheless irresistible and delectable!

So the day ends, what a pleasant treat (for myself!) for a long day that somehow ended in Binondo. Now, I have to haul my ass back to Cebu!

My Santa Ana

The house that built Sta Ana


Old home, Santa Ana Manila

I went home last Saturday, 19^th of June, in Muntinlupa - our home for the last decade. It was a pleasant feeling seeing my old parents and two of my brothers – healthy and happy, I’m the happiest for everything is well back home.

The following day, Sunday, I went to Santa Ana – my birthplace. We spent some time here before moving to Makati. I consider myself lucky for I can call myself a Manileno – and what better time to be proud of the ever loyal city than in June (24th), when it celebrates its always drizzly foundation day.

Originally celebrated as "Foundation Day", designated by the great Alcalde of Manila, Arsenio Lacson, the announcement was heavily criticized by nationalist that the word "foundation" is erroneous since a Manila existed long before Legazpi came, for this Quijano de Manila wrote "Lacson acted on Faustian man’s obsession with definite historical data; an invented ‘nationalist’ date to mark the foundation of pre-1571 Manila would be pure myth-making", unfortunately or fortunately for some, Villegas gave in to the criticism and ended up changing its name from Manila's foundation day to "Araw ng Maynila".

Santa Ana de Sapa, as it was known during the Spanish years was Namayan, pre-colonial settlement prior to becoming a Filipino town. Excavations exposed that the river place is home to waterway dwellers – the kingdom of Namayan, seated in the Santa Ana of today was said to have stretched as far as La Laguna.

I have finally found my old town. Although I could not recall a single memory of Santa Ana, it felt right, here I learned how to walk and play and pray.

Sta Ana Church

Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados, declared a national shrine, is a historical Franciscan church that has been around since 1578 – it is the first ever mission outside Intramuros. However it was only in 1720, when Fray Vicente Ingles headed the construction of the iglesia using hard materials, the project the good Priest started was completed in 1725.

The beautiful church was badly damaged during the American bombing of Manila, the liberation brought massive destruction, it was during this period that Intramuros lost almost all of its iglesia. It was indeed a blessing that the great Filipino Architect, Juan Nakpil and Engineer Arturo Mañalac took on the project of restoring the old church.

The church houses the miraculous image of Señora de los Desamparados, a replica of the one in Vallodolid. It is said that both icon was made to touch each other before it was sent here in 1719 by Fray Ingles. At the back of the altar is an “elaborately carved reredos behind the main altar patterned after the Basilica of St. Peter in Rome”.

At the back of the church there is a Santa Ana cultural and traditional symbol. La Virgen del Pozo. A water well that was built in 1720 was so popular here that people were said to line up here. For centuries, this place has been a location of miracles for the Manileño, a well that can be found here was said to possess miraculous powers. So famous is the well that people continually offered flowers, candles and food for thanksgiving until it was closed down by the Americans during the cholera outbreak.


The Chines Filipino's temple dedicated to the our Lady of the Abandoned

The Virgen del Pozo also became a tradition for the Chinese Filipino, confirmation of this is their temple that was built in front of the legendary well. A historical marker states, “it became a tradition for some Chinese devotees of Virgen del Pozo to visit this little Chapel on their new year celebration to offer various intentions after coming from the Chinese Buddhist temple located just opposite the site…the folks learned the custom of veneration by lighting candles with bowed heads and clasped hands while kneeling on provided cushions…call it a legend or a tradition, the Virgin of the Well and her shrine have a religious and historical value to the folks of Santa Ana, the waters that once sprung from this well will indeed become a symbol not only of their love and devotion for their patroness but moreover, it will be a testimony of their living faith as God’s people and Maria’s children”.

Osmena Peak

With the Mountain kiddos

" The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it..."

- Antoine de Saint-Exupery

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We decided to meet with the rest of the climbers at the gasoline station near the mercado of Carbon, there were trips that heads directly to Mantalungon, and we were told that it leaves at around 6AM but the bus had engine trouble – and we just can’t afford waste time. We had to go to the south station and ride a bus that would take us to Dalaguete town proper.

At the poblacion of quiet Dalaguete, close to several tiendas (one of which is Julies – a favorite!) upon disembarking from the multicab – we were swarmed by habalhabal operators, sensing that we were headed to Matalungon trail.

The habalhabal ride is quite an experience; the ride uphill takes around 20-25 minutes. The trip was rough, road was covered in dust, it was one helluva trip. The only downside is that you end up with sore butt cheeks. We all got off in Mantalungon public market.

Recognized as the “vegetable basket of Cebu”, its chilly climate and rich earth, offers an ideal condition for farming vegetables, variety that are known to favor mild climate. Walking en route to the trail, we saw several homes and schools, it was remarkable because of the barrio’s distance from the poblacion and and the main road. Mantalongon is indeed a spectacular mountain barrio.

The trek is visibly marked, it was just a matter of following it to the top– and since the mountain villagers, mostly farmers, are everywhere, scattered throughout the mountain you can always ask for instructions. On the way to the top, we pass by little clear streams and pleasant vegetable farms. Nearing the peak, some kids led the group to the top, they made climbing look easy.

The people of Dalaguete, especially the Mantalongon villagers are good-natured people. I’ve read experiences (most are not even firsthand) posted over the net about the place being unsafe particularly for campers. I believe that it’s not a dangerous location - like all places you’ll just have take precautionary measures, somehow unverified accounts of crimes committed in the mountain are exaggerations.

We reached the peak pass 12 noon, we ate a light meal and rested on the summit for hours, taking pleasure the mountain offers - islands of Bohol, Negros Oriental and Siquijor all clearly visible. The peak grants its visitors a view of Cebu’s coast to the west and east.

Not so Divina

Pueblo gate

My disappointment with the administrators of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arkangel was aggravated by its impolite employees at the parish office during my recent visit. After being heavily criticized by popular heritage conservationist and the media for destroying the icons and retablo of the church. I thought that these people would be more sensitive but I believe all the criticisms achieved the opposite.

As the streamer of the church’s museum indicates, it is open Saturday, like most normal museum – weekends are the best time to lure visitors to stopover. I then started to wonder why it’s close. I went to the church office only to be greeted by its unfriendly staff; didn’t even bother to answer when I asked if the museum will open that day.

I thought at first that it could be my Bisaya, admittedly not very good, so I asked again, this time in English, a language Cebuano’s prefer over Tagalog. “Ma’am, can someone help me, I want to visit the museum, and will it be open today? I’m from Manila po”, my exact words – unbelievably the woman snapped back and said “Please comeback next time!”. It was a rude reaction from someone you expect to be ready to lend a hand.

Admittedly I was lying by saying that I was from Manila since I’m already residing in Cebu City, I lied – but obviously it had no effects.

It could be a simple case of confusion; I said to myself, after all, this is not the first time I’ve been misunderstood around here. So, believe it or not, after being snubbed, I left that place still feeling upbeat, if this people can’t help me someone else would, after all I’m in tourist friendly Argao.

So I started to look for someone, I first spoke with an old gentleman who was cleaning the altar. “Wait for monsignor, he’ll come down for the first communion of the children, he can help you Sir”, so wait I did. After an hour the good Padre came down, as customary for Catolicos, I asked for his blessing by kissing his hand.

I never wasted time and went straight to the point. He then called the kind chap who endorsed me to him, he told him to get someone from the office. He went back with Divina, the supladita from the Parish office. Yes, it was Divina and me again; the priest gave her clear instructions in Bisaya, “get the key and assist him”.

After lying that I was arrogant and some other stuff that she made up to make the priest believe that I was a bad bad sightseer (thank God that I could understand the language) and throwing temper tantrums like that of a child, she then grudgingly said the magic words “yes, Father”.

After reaching her small office, she mockingly told me to wait, after 30 minutes, standing in front of her booth while she’s chit chatting and texting – I realized what this perra was trying to do. I was stupid to believe that this character will still help me, obviously she was upset about having to assist me after she had repulsed me the first time, there was no way in hell that she would help me now!

I then decided to leave, what a shame that the Parish have these cabrones in their payroll. If Argao wants more visitors, it has to make sure that the museum and church is being managed by capable hands – when I went to the municipal tourist center to lodge a complaint (even if I know that the church operate independently from the local government) it was also close because according to a bystander at the municipio, “its Saturday!” - Isn’t it that weekends are when tourist usually comes?

These people in the parish office is just one small group, they don't represent the town nor its values, too bad for me I met them. I would like to leave a piece of advice and a few words of wisdom for the parish employees: Take a moment to place yourself in the shoes of the tourists, who took time to visit your still splendid church (even after your parish priest ruined the retablo and the capella posas’) and its museum, tourist who traveled far and long to pay homage to the parish. Help ease their weary roaming bodies with some simple kindness.

Pueblo Argao

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="347" caption="One of Argao's pueblo gates that opens to the sea"][/caption]

Argao 400

One of Cebu’s most popular town is Argao. The town was established as pueblo in the year 1608. No records of it being founded in 1608 exist but the town’s citizens by tradition acknowledge 1608 as their foundation year. In 2008, they avidly celebrated their 400^th year with festivities and fireworks. The ‘08 feast was celebrated for nine straight days with Pitlagong Festival, a celebration known for its dance competition as one of its highlights. A night was also spared to honor the finest son’s and daughter’s of Argao.

The book, Argao 400: Legend and History, written by T.L. Sales under the commission of Mayor Edsel Galeos was launched during the festivities,  a very engaging book that offers its readers with mesmerizing essays with reference to the town’s humble beginnings and its most important events.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="377" caption="Inside looking out (taken inside the municipio)"][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="299" caption="The beautiful ceiling painting of San Miguel"][/caption]

San Miguel el Arkangel de Argao

The oldest documents and relics can be found in San Miguel, a beautiful baroque-rococo church annexed by a convent that now serves as a museum. The first parish began in 1733 (a recent marker outside the church states the year 1734) and was only wholly completed in 1788. Bishop Santos Gomez Maranon is credited to have pressed for the construction of a church made of hard materials in 1800’s. During his time as Cebu’s religious director, he established several churches and convents, a legacy unmatched by his predecessors.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="412" caption="The great Iglesia of Argao"][/caption]

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="334" caption="A beautiful door in the left portion of the church"][/caption]

Argao was officially assigned to a certain Hernando de Monroy as encomienda. It remained a visita (vicaria) under Carcar with Nuestra Sra. De Gracia as its patron in 21 June 1599. In 1730’s there were demands by the principales of Carcar to have a  permanent parish for Argao as historically Carcar was the older and being the principal pueblo is not suppose to split their Padre with any town. The Augustinian’s then established the town parish in 16 October 1733 with San Miguel as its patron.

In the feast day of San Miguel in 1998, a town council tasked to repair the Iglesia, headed by popular Argawanon, Hilario Davided Jr., presented the completion of restoration works that “restored her and her premises to the original beauty and grandeur – in gratitude to her forebears who built her, in thanksgiving to God for the countless blessings he showered and continues to shower upon them, as an expression of the constancy of their love for our lady and their devotion to their patron saint and protector”.



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="397" caption="The municipio"][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="403" caption="The road that leads to the sea"][/caption]

The Bermejo effect

The legendary Friar, Julian Bermejo once served Argao as its parish priest (1802-04). The brilliant Padre Cura is credited for having defended towns from Oslob to Daan Bantayan against the Moro raiders with his simple but ingenious baluartes. This happy state of affairs brought about by the success of keeping the town safe from pirates produced a boom in commerce and in population.

In 1890, the town’s residents was said to be the highest in the province with 31,058 inhabitants. The town’s population drew the attention of the Americanos and Teofisto Guingona Sr., head of the Bureau of Non-Christians, he then enticed the Argawanon’s to migrate under the promise of better opportunities’. The American’s encouraged these settlements in order to press forward their interest in the Moro lands.






[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="392" caption="The canons that defended the town from pirates"][/caption]



The Argao Walled Complex

An enclosure built with meter thick walls kept the towns Iglesia and its administrative building safe. Reminiscent of the gates of Intramuros, the fortifications and its portals were positioned strategically; the eastern gates were said to have doubled as a sentry structure. On the east side the Puerto opens to the sea, this same gate received the galleon calls in the few occasions it visited the prosperous town. This portal also had a mortuary chapel that was concealed for years because of a clinic that was constructed next to it. When the local government tore down the clinic, the chapel was revealed!

The other portals were opened to the main calles that made the complex accessible to the Argawanons. The gates are placed in a triangular arrangement. At its center is the Plaza Mayor that served the public as its recreational center, it had several gardens, benches and was separated by a low partition from the parque of the Iglesia.

[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="395" caption="one of the massive pueblo gate, most of the surviving old houses are American colonial "][/caption]



[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="331" caption="The Santos now looking more like trophies"][/caption]

The Disastrous Changes!

The controversy of the changes made by a priest who ordered to have portions of the retablo and its main statues to be painted in gold was widely condemned. The ill judgment of the priest obviously failed to consider the rules of heritage conservation. The centuries old icon all of a sudden became golden santos that disappointingly are unpleasant to the eyes for it appeared contemporary, worst is that it masked forever the exquisiteness and detail of its artistic creation.

The reckless renovation deprived the proud people of Argao a due recognition for their Iglesia to be one of the country’s very few World Heritage Site!

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[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="399" caption="The sea of Argao, capping a wonderful tour"][/caption]

Casa Gorordo

The main casa where four generations of the Gorordo's lived. A beautiful collection Martino Abellana's painting is exhibited on the first floor.

The Gorordo house is a Cebuano heritage icon. It takes its name from a prosperous family of merchant, the Gorordos.

Juan Isidro de Gorordo, a Spaniard bought the house from a certain Alejandro Reynes Y Rosales. Four generations of Gorordos lived in the house, including Juan Gorordo, Cebu’s first Filipino Bishop.Casa Gorordo is amazingly well preserved, thanks to the Ramon Aboitiz Foundation who acquired it sometime 1990’s. After restoration works, it opened as a museum.

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The other Casa of Casa Gorordo where amateur art from young Cebuano artist are displayed

Unlike the house museum in Intramuros, Casa Gorordo is not a re-creation, there were no alteration made in the structure, in fact most of the furniture are originals. This bahay na bato is perhaps one the most well preserved I've ever seen. The Aboitiz foundation has done a marvelous job ensuring Filipino visitors would understand what a classic Hispano Filipino life was like.

Banner at the entrance of Casa Gorordo

Calle Colon

This monument marks the beginning of Calle Colon, or as its Tagalogized name in the NHI marker suggest, Daan Colon. Mabini is the calle that intersects with Colon. This area was commonly referred to as Parian, the Filipino Hispano name for Chinatown during those days. Founded by Legazpi, it became the center of trade and activity, making it the most prosperous district during the early period of the colony

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Parian's old fire station

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The Heritage of Cebu monument is a great tribute to the heritage of the province, in no way it conceals the Christian foundation of the province and its colossal influence that up until this day can be truly felt among these proud people. However, its location is somehow out of place, it would have been better if this massive art project, which by the looks of it cost a lot of money to build, was place in a more populous area, a place where it can be appreciated, its located in front of the Parian fire station in Mabini.

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The Yap Sandiego ancestral house is considered by many as one of the oldest (if not the oldest) bahay na bato in the country, its located in Mabini (Calle Binacayan) and is less than a block away from the Calle Colon marker. This Parian residence was said to have been built in late 17th century which should explain its distinctive form. It certainly looks unique compared to the other bahay na bato that still exist today. Entrance is P60 and there are interesting artifacts that can be seen inside.

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The Jesuit House of Parian

A beautiful Marian monogram

The Jesuit House in Parian is definitely a lost treasure, not too many people know it still exists! It’s now a warehouse own by a Filipino-Chinese family, a depot for the family’s hardware business.

There are some lucky few who were able to get inside, I did attempt to enter but was discouraged by what I’ve seen, a snobbish rude fellow manning its tall metal gate and rusting scraps of metal, wires and crude dripping on the floor – thick dust and industrial supplies are all over the place. I just took some photos then left.

The house still bravely stands, believe it or not, but one must wonder how long considering that this house has been around for more than two centuries without much care. I don’t blame the new owners for they have acquired this historical house legally. Being a lover of history, and knowing how important this place is, I feel bad but there’s truly not much we can do.

In fairness to the Chinese Filipino family that now owns place, they have been known to accommodate request from interested parties and the fact that they haven’t touch the old house says something about them, they’re obviously aware of its significance to history. Add to these are their effort to protect the relieves by enclosing them in iron grills, protecting them from vandals and keeping the old convento intact even if they can do away without it.
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The thick cut coral stone wall of the Convento

With its thick coral stone walls it is hidden and can only be seen upon entering an esquinita from Mabini St, formerly Calle Binacayan, I’m not exactly sure where the opening of these convent is or what it looks like from the inside, but the walls from the outside had the IHS symbols cut from coral stones which is almost unrecognizable.

I found this article on the net posted by an Atenean website:

Heritage Features: The whole compound is surrounded by a wall made of cut coral. The wall is divided by short piers on which are relieves bearing the monogram IHS, meaning Jesus. The original gate to the residence is along the side road named Binakayan. The gate’s lintel is decorated with monograms of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. These bas relieves in soft coral have unfortunately eroded because of wind and rain and also because vehicles have scarped the wall along the very narrow Binakayan road. To protect the monograms on the gate, the Sy family has installed a metal gate and a roof over the gate. To see the monograms on the lintel permission is needed as the steel gate is locked.

Entrance to the compound is through a new opening at Zulueta. Inside the compound are two structures. The structure closest to Zulueta bears traces of renovation. It is a bipartite building, the lower story of coral and the upper of wood. The stairway leading to the first house is of 20^th-century vintage. The roof of the house is supported by stout unhewn tree trunks decorated with corbels.

This house is connected by a bridge to a second house. Like the convento of Santo Niño the second house is all of cut coral. Stout unhewn timbers support a heavy tile roof. The roof line curves outward in the same manner as Chinese style roofs. Iron grilles bar the windows of the second story. The house is no longer divided as it may have looked in the 18^th century. Divisions into rooms are of 20^th century vintage. The main door of the house is permanently locked and the decorative banister and newel post of the stairway is gone. Oral tradition has it that the Alvarez family brought the banister and newel post to a new house they were building in Bohol. Both banister and post were similar in design to those found in the convento of Santo Niño.

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This heritage house unfortunately was passed on from the Jesuits to private families and at one point a club. This Jesuit residence was built in 1730, when these Friars were expelled in 1760’s the beautiful house was auctioned together with almost all the properties of the order.

I can imagine that this house must’ve been an admired structure, an imposing building not only in Parian but the whole of Cebu, there was even a tower similar to the bantayan sa hari that guards it from raiders, an indication that it was more than just a convento.

The Jesuits location greatly benefited their mission as they have mostly affluent parishioners who generously donate to their fund. These ‘rich’ contributions became a source of conflict between the missions. The house need not to contend anymore for anything than its preservation, this once mighty house could be seeing its end but the seeds of Catholicism has already spread, it has done it share, it’s a shame that we don’t even care to look after our heritage, our roots.

Museo Sugbo

The Museo in Cuenca St

La Carcel de Cebu has been Cebu’s top prison since it was opened in 1871. It’s the province version of Bilibid de Manila. It has been converted to become the provincial museum by Governadora Garcia. Renamed Museo Sugbo, it has been wonderfully transformed from a detention center to first class museum.

The Carcel was designed by Escondrilla, Cebu’s great 19^th century architect, It’s an outstanding construction for it use so little space but housed prisoners for centuries. It has been used mainly as penitentiary by the Espanoles, Japanese and Americanos – and it continued to do so under Filipinos. Originally intended to serve Visayas requirement for a penal complex (Carcel del Distrito) it was only in 2007 that it was officially opened to the public as the provincia’s repository of heritage.

Exhibit of various mementos from the brutal Japanese occupation. Samurais, uniforms, bombs, flags and Japanese propaganda material to the recent excavations that unearthed jars and coffins of the prehispanic Filipinos are on display.

Guided tours is also available without extra charge, entrance is P20 for Filipinos and P40 for foreigners which is far cheaper than what museums in Manila charges. All the rooms are air-conditioned, security and staff are approachable.

Other interesting sections are the ones dedicated to the pioneers of Cebuano politicos. Vicente Rama, the first Mayor of the ciudad, who earned his reputation with his Nueva Fuerza articles, a Spanish daily – another famed journalist was Vicente Sotto, known for his brilliant writings in Spanish and pure Cebuano. Sotto would become a popular senador, he was regarded as Liberal party’s maverick senator (preceding McCain!).

Narrow pathways of what was once a prison quarter

There were surprises, the first one was Leon Kilat’s anting-anting! Superbly preserved, one could clearly read the prayers written on the piece of cloth, legend has it that this handkerchief made the man invincible against bullets. So feared was his amulet that when he was assassinated in Carcar by no less than his second man, he was stabbed instead, because people really believed that bullets had no effects on him. A great equestrian, Kilat once work in Cebu as a jockey and was known to be fluent in Spanish.

The other surprise was not really surprise because I’ve known beforehand that the documents can be found in the museum but when the time you see them, you’re astonished that it’s in front of you! The letters of the Adelantado, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi to no less than King Philip can be found in air tight glass enclosure – the letters were not only the first postage that came out of the islas but it contains the report of the country’s premier Governador General on his condition and that of the mission. The other letters on display are his affirmation as the Governador General of the new colony.

The popular translation of these series of letters were from Emma Blair and James Alexander Robertson.

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To the Sacred Royal Catholic Majesty:

I gave an account to your majesty of my departure from Puerto de la Navidad, which is located in Nueva España, with your royal fleet for the discovery of the Western Islands. Continuing my voyage until February thirteen of this present year, I arrived at one of the Filipinas Island. Afterward I cruised among other islands of this archipelago, until I reached this island of Cebu, whence I dispatched a vessel to Nueva España to discover the return route, and to give an account to your majesty of the incidents of our voyage until the departure of this vessel. The relation of the voyage is dispatched together with this letter, as well as certain other information in regard to the change of feeling among the natives respecting the friendship and goodwill that they have been wont to exercise toward the vassals of your majesty, and the cause therefore; the possessions that have been taken in your majesty's name; and the routes of the pilots of this fleet. I beseech your majesty that you will have these examined, and provide whatever seems most fitting. I shall remain in my settlement in this island of Cebu until I receive the orders your majesty shall see fit to impose upon me, although I have but few people.

I am writing also to the royal Audencia of Nueva España to beg succor of both people and ammunition, in order that I may sustain myself until your majesty has seen all these records, the memorandum of the articles asked by the officials of your royal hacienda [treasury] residing here, and the general and individual communications of those who remain here, and until your majesty shall have provided and ordered what is most fitting, and have signified your royal pleasure. Since this undertaking is so vast, and of so great import in regard to the spiritual and temporal, and has ended so happily, and is so seasonable, I humbly beg your majesty to order that particular account be taken of it, and that you order the succor and provision petitioned and requested from these islands; and that you will give the matter into the charge of one who will provide and effect it with all care and diligence; for I trust, with the help of God, our Lord, that very great blessings in the service of God, our Lord, and of your majesty, will result, with the increase of your royal income and the universal good of your kingdoms and seigniories.

I beseech your majesty that, yielding with your accustomed magnificence in showing favor to your servants who serve you in matters of great import, you will be pleased to order that the communications accompanying this letter be examined, and that you will grant me the favor that seems most fitting to your majesty, whose sacred royal Catholic majesty may our Lord have in his keeping, and give you increase of kingdoms and siegniories for many and felicitous years.

From Cebu, May 27, 1565.

Your sacred royal majesty's faithful servant, who kisses your majesty's royal feet,

Miguel Lopez de Legazpi

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The only vegetation I found inside the prison hall

The quarters were all repaired like this one